Stable design and safety

Not every horse needs a stable. The government's code of practice says some horses, particularly native breeds, can live out all year with the right shelter (see field shelters and living out). But any horse may need stabling at short notice if it becomes ill or injured, so the code advises planning for that in advance. When a horse is stabled, the stable is where it spends many of its hours, and its design affects its safety, its breathing and its wellbeing.

What the code of practice asks for

The code says the main things to consider when building or altering housing for horses are their safety and comfort, ease of access, and good drainage and ventilation. A badly designed or badly managed stable can help disease spread quickly. Good vehicle access matters too, in case emergency vehicles need to reach the yard.

These points apply to every kind of housing, from single stables to communal barns:

• Construction: sound, with no exposed surfaces or projections likely to cause injury. Every surface should be possible to clean and disinfect. If surfaces are treated, use non-toxic paints or wood preservatives.
• Fittings: tie rings, hay racks and water bowls should be free of sharp edges and placed so they don't cause injury, particularly to the eyes.
• Floors: reasonably even, non-slip and designed to drain, taking waste away from the horse.

Size

The code of practice says every horse should, as a minimum, be able to lie down, get up and turn around in comfort. Horses vary so much in size that it quotes the British Horse Society's minimum stable sizes:

The BHS adds that some horses need more space than these minimums. Boxes for foaling, and for mares with a foal at foot, need extra room. Passageways should be wide enough to lead a horse safely past others. The code also gives the Donkey Sanctuary's sizes for donkeys and mules.

Group housing. Horses can be kept together in a communal barn, says the code, as long as every horse can get to hay, feed and water, there's room to move freely, and there's space for all of them to lie down at the same time. Groups should be compatible, and aggressive horses kept apart. Mares late in pregnancy and mares with foals at foot have special needs and may not suit a communal barn.

Doors

• Width: at least 1.25 m (4 ft).
• Height: the door and roof should let the horse look out with its head comfortably over the door. The code points out that a standard stable door, 1.32 m (4 ft 6 in) high, is too high for a small pony.
• Bolts: the bottom door should fasten securely with a top and a bottom bolt. The BHS says the bottom one, a kick bolt, stops the horse escaping or getting a leg stuck between the door and the frame.
• Opening: the BHS says doors should open outwards or slide.
• Top doors: a top door should be possible to fix open. The code warns that shutting it cuts ventilation and light and may distress the horse, so it should only be closed in exceptional circumstances.

Roof, ventilation and windows

A horse can develop breathing problems if it's kept in a poorly ventilated building, says the code, so dust should be kept to a minimum and air should move through the building without unnecessary draughts. The BHS says ventilation is needed all year round, for fresh air, to control temperature and to lower the risk of respiratory disease such as equine asthma. It can come from the doors, the height of the roof, air vents and windows. Bransby Horses puts it simply: well ventilated, but free from draughts.

• Roof height: there should be at least 60–90 cm (2–3 ft) of clear space between the eaves and the horse's ears when it stands normally.
• Always open: the code says one window or the top door should normally be open at all times.
• Windows: windows at the back of the stable give light and air. The BHS says never to use ordinary glass, which is extremely dangerous if it shatters. Use perspex or safety glass, ideally with a metal grille between the horse and the window. A small opening hatch lets the horse look out.

Floors and bedding

The BHS says floors should be as even as possible, non-slip, and drain urine away, for example by sloping towards the back or having drainage channels. Bedding or matting should cover the whole floor, especially near the door, because standing for long periods on a hard surface such as bare concrete strains the limbs and joints. Choosing bedding and keeping it clean are covered in bedding and mucking out.

Lighting and electrics

Good light lets you see and handle your horse safely, especially in winter, and the code says it should be available in all stabling, including portable lighting. Both the code and the BHS stress safe wiring:

• Keep light fittings, switches and cables out of the horse's reach. The BHS suggests plastic safety covers on fittings and switches, and no exposed wires a horse could chew.
• Wiring should be well insulated, protected from rodents and properly earthed. The code recommends protecting the whole installation with a residual current device (RCD).
• Mains electrics must be installed, maintained and regularly inspected and tested by a competent electrician. The BHS advises having the electrics tested at least once a year.
• Take care that extension leads and cables can't injure a horse.

Fittings

• Haynets should hang at the horse's head height, so it can eat comfortably but can't get a foot or headcollar caught, especially once the net is empty and hangs lower.
• Tie rings and salt-lick holders should be few, free of sharp edges and placed where they won't injure the face and eyes.
• Mirrors: the BHS says a stable mirror may reduce stress. Use a horse-safe one, never glass, and supervise your horse when it's first fitted, as it may think it's seeing another horse.

Water and forage

The code says a stabled horse should always have fresh water, and automatic drinkers should be checked regularly to make sure they work. The BHS compares the two ways of providing it:

Stand buckets in a corner so they're harder to knock over. In hot weather the water warms up and may need changing more often. Give a bucket too while a horse learns to use an automatic drinker.

The BHS says unlimited forage at ground level is ideal, unless a horse's intake has to be limited, for example to lose weight. World Horse Welfare adds that hay fed on the floor or low down helps the airways drain and is better for the horse's muscles and joints. The BHS's equine asthma advice also suggests feeding forage from the ground, and notes that haynets have been linked to more inflammation in the airways.

Somewhere to see friends

Horses need company. The BHS suggests considering whether stabled horses can interact, or at least see one another, and World Horse Welfare suggests "social stabling": lowering the walls between stables or adding large windows so horses can touch and groom each other, or housing horses in pairs in large pens. There's more in life in the stable.

Fire safety

The code of practice says fire is always a risk where horses are stabled. Combustible material shouldn't be stored in or near the stables, smoking should be banned, and you should seek advice from your local fire and rescue service. Stabled horses must be able to be released quickly in an emergency, with an emergency turnout plan worked out in advance.

Legal duties. The BHS explains that the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 applies to stables where people work, including livery yards, equestrian centres and private yards that employ staff. The employer or business owner must carry out and record a fire risk assessment, and review it at least once a year or sooner after big changes.

Preventing fire. The BHS's precautions include:

• Store bedding, feed, hay, straw and rugs well away from the stables, and keep hay and straw stacks at least 10 metres apart.
• Never stable horses in a barn alongside hay, straw or vehicles.
• Keep the muck heap downwind and at least 15 metres from the stables.
• Keep gangways and escape routes clear of hay, straw, haynets and rugs. Internal barns should have a second exit, ideally one at each end.
• Ban smoking, or allow it only in a set area well away from the stables.
• Switch off tack room and communal heaters when they're not in use.
• Park vehicles, horseboxes and trailers away from buildings.
• Keep firefighting equipment working, with a hose long enough to reach the whole yard, but use it only if it's safe.
• Consider fire detection. The BHS says hard-wired optical or heat detectors are best, with sounders placed elsewhere if an alarm would upset the horses.

Arson. The BHS says nearly half of all rural fires are started deliberately, so security, lighting and an intruder alarm are part of fire safety too.

Planning an evacuation. The BHS suggests numbering each stable, keeping a headcollar outside every door, and deciding which paddock (upwind of the stables) each horse will go to. Take out the horses nearest the fire first, and close each stable door behind you: loose horses may run back into a burning stable. Put the horses somewhere secure, so they don't get in the firefighters' way. Make sure everyone who uses the yard knows the plan, and practise it.

If a fire starts, call the fire and rescue service straight away. Give the full address and postcode, and say that animals (and any chemicals) are involved. Only fight the fire if it's safe, send someone to the entrance to guide the crews, and clear the way for fire engines.

Choosing a yard

If you keep your horse at livery, the BHS suggests looking for well-kept stables, sturdy fencing, safe doorways and walkways, well-lit areas for handling, dry and secure storage for forage, bedding, rugs and tack, and clear fire safety measures and an emergency plan. Ask what safety measures and emergency plans are in place, and what turnout is offered through the year.