Field shelters and living out

World Horse Welfare encourages keeping horses out as much as possible, because life at grass gives them friends, forage and freedom. Plenty of horses can live out all year round, but only if they can get out of the weather when they want to.

Which horses can live out?

The government's code of practice says not every horse needs a stable. Some, particularly native breeds, can live outdoors all year, as long as they have shelter from the prevailing wind, summer sun and flies. Living out in a social group may suit some horses better than living inside.

Horses of less hardy breeding, such as Thoroughbreds, and horses that are clipped, very young or elderly, may need a stable or other shelter to protect them from cold and damp or from very hot weather. And any horse can suddenly need a stable if it becomes ill or injured, so the code advises planning for that in advance.

Bransby Horses says many owners bring horses in at night in winter, but that this isn't always necessary and doesn't suit every horse: a large number are happy to live out all year with suitable shelter and forage. See native pony care and caring for finer-coated horses for more on each.

Shelter all year round

Horses need shelter from wind and rain in winter, and from sun and flies in summer. The BHS says even a horse that hardly seems to use its shelter is likely to look for a windbreak on a cold, windy day. Rugs can give some protection too.

Natural shelter means thick hedges, tree lines and groups of trees. It has limits:

• Trees that lose their leaves in winter give little shelter once the leaves have gone, says the BHS.
• In summer, shade from trees and hedges moves with the sun, so Bransby Horses warns there may be times of day when your horse can't reach it.
• Check that no tree or hedge used for shelter is poisonous to horses.
• There must be room for the whole herd to shelter at once.

If there's no natural shelter, the BHS says it's important to provide a field shelter. Bransby Horses says a field shelter gives the best protection from the sun.

Field shelters

The BHS's guidance on field shelters:

• Size: 3.65 m (12 ft) deep and 3–3.65 m (10–12 ft) wide for one horse, with an extra 1.5 m (5 ft) of width for each additional horse. Ideally it should be big enough for every horse in the field to use it safely at the same time.
• Height: at least 60–90 cm (2–3 ft) of clear space to the eaves above the horse's ears, as in a stable.
• Ground: put it on hardstanding, or at least on a free-draining site.
• Build: sturdy. Bransby Horses says shelters should be professionally installed, of suitable quality and properly secured, so they can stand up to all weathers.

All 3.65 m (12 ft) deep. The stabling hub works this out for any number of horses.

Planning permission

The BHS advises always asking your local council for planning permission before putting up a permanent field shelter. Temporary, moveable shelters don't always need it, but some areas do require it, and the rules vary between councils. You may also need permission to build stables or to change land from agricultural to equestrian use. Your local planning authority can guide you.

Mud, gateways and hardstanding

Winter rain can turn fields into deep, slippery mud. The BHS says deep mud full of droppings raises the risk of mud fever, rain scald and thrush, softens the hooves so they crack and split more easily, and brings more flying insects in spring. Its advice for keeping mud down:

• Before winter, check there's hardstanding around gates and water troughs, keep ditches clear, and make sure trough pipes are insulated.
• Gateways should be in the driest part of the field's edge. High-traffic areas such as gateways and water points can be built up with layers of permeable fabric and gravel, or covered with rubber or plastic ground mats for a while. Bransby Horses also suggests hardcore or paddock mats around these areas.
• Use your best-drained paddock in winter, and avoid low-lying land where water collects.
• Don't overstock: too many horses in one field churn it up faster.
• Rest and rotate, giving each area at least one to two months without horses, or fence off badly damaged patches.
• Feed hay on a hard surface, away from troughs and gateways, never on muddy ground, and clear leftovers before adding more. The BHS suggests putting out more piles of hay than there are horses.
• Pick up droppings at least twice a week, ideally every day.

All-weather turnout areas. When fields are too wet, the BHS suggests a separate turnout area surfaced with sand, horse-safe wood chip, hardcore, rubber matting or grass mats, so horses can still get out every day without damaging the grazing. The surface should be non-slip, level, free of gaps and easy to clean, and the area big enough for the number of horses using it. Check local planning rules before creating one.

Moving between field and stable

Whichever way your horse is moving, change gradually. The BHS says moving from summer turnout to stabling should take 10–14 days, to reduce the risk of colic. World Horse Welfare suggests adding as little as 10 extra minutes a day in the first couple of weeks, in either direction, and smaller steps for a horse that finds the change stressful. In spring, World Horse Welfare warns that lush grass can be very high in sugar: after a winter with little grazing, long hours on it can upset the digestion and lead to colic, and overweight horses or those with metabolic problems are at higher risk of laminitis. There's more on this in life in the stable.