How horses learn: training and temperament

Horses learn all the time

World Horse Welfare points out that horses don't instinctively know how to live in a human world; we have to teach them, through compassionate and consistent training. And they learn all the time, not only in training sessions. So every interaction, from catching a horse in the field to picking up its feet, teaches it something.

Horses learn from the consequences of their actions, just as we do. If something they do leads to an outcome they want, such as a slice of carrot or the release of pressure from the bit, they are more likely to do it again. If it leads to something unpleasant, such as touching an electric fence, they are less likely to.

Horses can't work out what we want by reasoning about it. It is up to us to set things up so the right answer is easy: break training into small, logical steps, and reward the horse when it gets it right.

Fear stops learning

A horse in a heightened emotional state, whether in flight, fight or freeze, can't learn. Methods that cause fear or stress therefore make training less effective, as well as risking injury and damaging the horse's trust in people. World Horse Welfare's advice is that methods that risk physical or emotional harm shouldn't be used.

That is why good training stays within the horse's comfort zone and goes back a step whenever the horse becomes worried.

Learning theory in plain English

The science of how animals learn is called learning theory. Its key terms, as World Horse Welfare explains them:

In these terms, "positive" means something is added and "negative" means something is taken away. They don't mean good and bad. Negative reinforcement is behind much everyday riding: as the British Horse Society describes, a young horse learns to walk on from the leg because the pressure stops when it does.

World Horse Welfare's guidance is that positive reinforcement should underpin training and positive punishment should be avoided: it is ethically questionable and unlikely to get the results you want. Biting, for example, can be a sign of pain. Taking food away can cause frustration and make aggression worse, so it isn't recommended either.

Methods to avoid

• Flooding: exposing a horse to something it fears until it stops reacting, such as holding on to the foot of a frightened horse until it gives up. It pushes the horse beyond what it can cope with.
• Learned helplessness: when a horse repeatedly can't escape something unpleasant, it may stop trying and simply submit. A horse ridden with constant rein pressure that is never released may keep working while showing signs of pain or stress.

Temperament: every horse is different

Horses are individuals. Breed profiles describe typical temperaments (see Horse and pony breeds), but within any breed, horses vary, and experience shapes behaviour.

The British Horse Society describes two broad ways horses cope with stress. Active copers try to take control, for example by moving away, and their stress is easy to see. Passive copers freeze or withdraw, and may look calm when they are actually shut down. Some horses are calm when competing and others keen and excitable. Some adapt easily to change, while others find it very stressful.

A horse's history matters too. A horse that has repeatedly been frightened or handled forcefully learns to expect the same in similar situations. Positive experiences build confidence: Bransby Horses notes that good training lowers stress and helps a horse cope with new situations.

Before deciding a horse has a "difficult temperament", rule out pain. World Horse Welfare stresses that horses are never intentionally naughty: their behaviour reflects how they feel, physically and emotionally. See Reading your horse for signs of pain.

Putting it into practice

Teaching a horse to be left alone

Being alone can frighten a herd animal, but World Horse Welfare says most horses can learn to be comfortable on their own for short periods with time, patience and a step-by-step approach. Let a new horse settle first: at least a full week, and ideally much longer. Then build up gradually, for example:

1. Catch the horse you'll take away, put its headcollar on, take it off and walk away.
2. Lead it a short way across the field and let it go.
3. Take it out of the gate and straight back in.
4. Take it out of the gate, wait a short while, and put it back.
5. Gradually increase either the time away or the distance, never both at once, until the horse left behind stays calm with its friend out of sight.

If either horse gets worried (an alert posture, trotting about or calling), go back to a step they were both comfortable with. A haynet or treat ball can help the horse left behind associate being alone with something good. Never leave a horse in a field where it can't see other horses.

Everyday handling

• Changes to routine: introduce them gradually, watching for signs of stress.
• The vet and farrier: the British Horse Society points to short training videos from the British Equine Veterinary Association on helping horses stay relaxed for vet visits, and suggests working with your farrier to make visits a positive experience.
• Travelling: practise loading regularly, with plenty of time and something to eat, so the trailer or lorry becomes a calm place.

Getting help

If you are struggling with your horse's behaviour:

1. Start with your vet. Pain and discomfort are common causes of behaviour problems. Dr Sue Dyson's research, highlighted by World Horse Welfare, found that lameness, back pain and poorly fitting saddles were associated with unwanted behaviour when tacking up and mounting.
2. Then find a qualified equine behaviour professional. World Horse Welfare advises choosing someone whose practice is based on equine learning theory, who has experience with your kind of problem, and who has at least public liability insurance. Check the qualifications, continuing development and complaints procedure of any register you use. If a proposed method would compromise your horse's welfare or its ability to learn, find someone else.