- The BHS says up to 50% of horses in the UK are obese, and being overweight more than doubles the risk of laminitis.
- A fat score of 2.5–3 out of 5 is ideal for most horses. You have to feel for fat: you can't judge it by eye.
- Weigh-tape and fat score every two weeks. A weighbridge gives the most accurate weight.
- A horse only loses weight when it uses more calories than it eats, but never cut its daily ration below 1.5% of bodyweight without your vet.
- Keep forage going through the day with soaked hay, straw, small-holed nets and restricted grazing, and add exercise.
Most owners would spot a horse that's too thin. Spotting one that's too fat is harder. World Horse Welfare says being overweight is one of the most common health problems vets see in UK horses, and that it has become normal to see horses carrying more weight than they should.
Why weight matters
The BHS says up to 50% of horses in the UK are obese, rising to 70% in some native pony breeds. Carrying too much fat raises the risk of:
- Laminitis. The BHS says excess weight gain more than doubles the risk.
- Equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), a hormonal disorder linked to laminitis.
- Arthritis, and extra strain on the heart, lungs, limbs and joints, says World Horse Welfare.
The government's code of practice is clear that a very overweight horse is as much of a welfare concern as an underweight one. An underweight horse has its own problems: World Horse Welfare says it may have an underlying health problem, such as a heavy worm burden or dental trouble.
Weighing your horse
Knowing your horse's weight tells you how much to feed (see forage first) and shows you when it changes. It doesn't tell you whether that weight is right: for that you need to fat score too.
| Method | How good is it? |
|---|---|
| Weighbridge | The most accurate. Some vet practices and feed companies offer weighing, and the BHS can bring a weighbridge to your yard |
| Weigh tape | Cheap, and good for tracking changes, but not for exact weight. Bransby Horses says different brands give very different readings, so always use the same tape. World Horse Welfare says the most accurate tapes have a horse side and a pony side |
| Measuring and calculating | The University of Liverpool's weight management guide gives a formula using the heart girth and body length in cm: weight in kg = girth × girth × length ÷ 11,880. It says this is more accurate than a weigh tape, and needs two people to measure |
| Photographs | Regular photos from the side, front and back show big changes over months |
Whichever you use, measure with your horse standing square, and do it the same way each time. The feeding hub has a calculator for the University of Liverpool formula.
Fat scoring
Fat scoring, also called body condition scoring, is a hands-on check of how much fat a horse is carrying. World Horse Welfare says it's impossible to tell how much fat a horse has by eye. Fat feels spongy, and muscle feels firmer. The exception is crest fat on the neck, which can feel hard.
There are two main systems: a 0–5 scale (Carroll and Huntington) and a 1–9 scale (Henneke). World Horse Welfare says the 0–5 scale can be easier if you're new to fat scoring. On the 0–5 scale, the BHS says a score of 2.5–3 is ideal for most horses, unless your vet advises otherwise.
How to fat score
The BHS scores three areas in turn, and Bransby Horses averages the three scores.
- Neck and shoulders. Look for the shape of the neck muscles. Feel along the crest for hard fat that wobbles from side to side. You should be able to feel the nuchal ligament along the top of the neck: the BHS says it feels like a ball of elastic bands. Run your hand down onto the shoulder: it should be stopped by the shoulder blade, not slide smoothly over a pad of fat.
- Middle. You should be able to feel the ribs easily with light pressure, but not see them. Place your hand across the back, about a hand's width behind the withers: it should follow the curve over the spine, not lie flat across a gutter of fat.
- Hindquarters. You should be able to see and feel the hip bones, the top of the pelvis and the tail head under a thin layer of fat. Stand safely behind your horse: the quarters should be slightly rounded, like a letter C. An "M" shape with a gutter along the spine means too much fat. Angular quarters that drop away mean too little.
What the scores mean
| Score | The BHS's description |
|---|---|
| 0, emaciated | Extremely thin, with no fat. Every bone can be seen and felt |
| 1, thin | Very little muscle. The bones are easy to see and feel |
| 2, lean | A very thin layer of fat. Ribs just visible. Most fit racehorses and eventers score about 2 |
| 3, good | Ribs and spine can't be seen but are easy to feel. No crest, and a smooth curve over the hindquarters |
| 4, fat | Spongy fat on the crest, behind the shoulder and over the quarters. Ribs need firm pressure to feel. A gutter and an "M" shape are forming |
| 5, obese | A wide neck with a large, firm crest. Ribs can't be felt, a flat back with a deep gutter, and pockets of fat |
The feeding hub has a fat score check that walks you through the three areas.
Some horses are harder to score. The BHS says horses with EMS often carry fat in unusual places, such as pads on the neck and hindquarters, while horses with Cushing's disease (PPID) may have lost muscle and look pot-bellied with their ribs showing. The University of Liverpool notes that heavy breeds can be harder to score. Ask your vet if you're not sure.
How often?
World Horse Welfare and the BHS both suggest fat scoring and weigh-taping every two weeks: horses can put on weight quickly. Keep a record, so you can see the trend.
Helping a horse lose weight
A horse loses weight when it uses more calories than it eats. The challenge is creating that gap without leaving it hungry for long periods, which is bad for its gut and its wellbeing. The code of practice says there are ways to cut calories while keeping natural eating patterns.
Feed less, but keep it going
- Don't cut too far. The BHS suggests reducing the daily ration from 2% of bodyweight towards 1.5%, and never below 1.5% without your vet's instruction. The University of Liverpool also recommends your vet's help at that level.
- Don't leave gaps. World Horse Welfare says a horse losing weight shouldn't go without forage for longer than 4 hours.
- Make it last. Small-holed haynets, haynets that swing freely, and hay balls slow eating down. Bransby Horses suggests three or four small nets through the day rather than one big one.
- Lower the calories, not the amount. Soak hay to remove sugar, or replace part of it with straw if your horse has good teeth. The BHS suggests soaked hay rather than haylage for an overweight horse.
- Weigh everything. Bransby Horses says not to guess how much a horse is eating, including the hay.
- Keep it balanced. A dieting horse still needs vitamins, minerals and protein: World Horse Welfare and the University of Liverpool both suggest a balancer or a vitamin and mineral supplement.
- Go easy on treats. Bransby Horses notes that carrots and apples can contain more sugar than a horse needs.
Manage the grazing
Grass is a major source of calories. World Horse Welfare's options:
- Strip grazing: an electric fence moved onto fresh grass each day, ideally with a back fence so the grazed strip can regrow.
- A track system: a track around the edge of the field, with hay, water and shelter spread out to keep horses moving. Bransby Horses suggests a track about four metres wide.
- A dry lot: a bare or surfaced area, with hay spread around in small-holed nets. Changing a grass area to a hard surface may need permission from the landowner or local authority.
- Changing the grass: many UK yards are on old dairy pasture, sown with ryegrass for cows. Over-seeding or reseeding with timothy, cocksfoot or meadow fescues gives coarser, higher-fibre grazing.
Grazing muzzles cut grass intake without stopping a horse eating. The BHS says a muzzle should never be left on 24 hours a day, and a horse shouldn't be left alone during its first session in one: check it can graze and drink comfortably.
Watch for binge eating. The University of Liverpool warns that horses can eat 24 hours' worth of grass in just 4 hours. It says research found a higher risk of laminitis where horses could eat a lot in a short time, such as when a muzzle comes off on long grass, compared with horses on a little grass all the time.
Know the risky times. Bransby Horses says grass is higher in sugar in spring and summer, and also on frosty autumn days.
Move more
Exercise is essential for weight loss, says World Horse Welfare. Build it up gradually, especially for an unfit or arthritic horse:
- Walking: in hand, ridden, long-reined or ridden and led. World Horse Welfare says a brisk walk or steady trot burns more fat than faster work such as canter, and that walking uphill is excellent. The University of Liverpool adds that trot and canter burn more calories than walking, if your vet agrees your horse can do them.
- Pole work for core strength.
- Loose schooling to add some trot and canter.
World Horse Welfare's advice is not to add calories to the diet as exercise increases: the horse needs to stay in a calorie deficit.
Use the seasons
The BHS says it's natural for horses to lose some weight in winter, which is helpful for an overweight horse. The University of Liverpool suggests aiming to see the slight outline of the ribs by spring, to leave room for the spring grass. World Horse Welfare and Bransby Horses both suggest thinking about whether an overweight horse really needs a rug, or a lighter one: digesting fibre helps keep it warm, and a horse that keeps itself warm uses its own fat.
Lose it slowly
Bransby Horses says weight loss should be slow, and suggests weighing and recording your horse's weight every month while it's losing weight. The University of Liverpool suggests teaming up with a friend whose horse also needs to lose weight, to help each other fat score honestly and stay motivated.
If your horse won't lose weight whatever you do, speak to your vet: it may have EMS, which needs veterinary help to manage.
Your vet can help you set a target weight and a safe plan. Talk to them before cutting your horse's ration to 1.5% of bodyweight, or if it has EMS, laminitis or Cushing's disease.
This guide cannot diagnose your horse. If in doubt, call.
Sources
- Fat scoring horses — The British Horse Society (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Feeding horses — The British Horse Society (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Winter horse care and routine — The British Horse Society (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Grazing muzzles — The British Horse Society (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Equine Metabolic Syndrome — The British Horse Society (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Weight: is your horse the right weight? — World Horse Welfare (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Weight management strategies for overweight horses — World Horse Welfare (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Horse nutrition essentials — World Horse Welfare (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Tips for weight management — Bransby Horses (accessed 8 October 2026)
- When the grass is greener: the equine weight management guide — University of Liverpool School of Veterinary Science (accessed 8 October 2026)
- Code of practice for the welfare of horses, ponies, donkeys and their hybrids (2018) — Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (accessed 8 October 2026)
